September 16th-22nd, 2018
Sunday (97 days left!)
Today we received quick housing tour for operating the washing machine, heaters, outlets, and instructions in the case of a fuse blowing. There is this wonderful fuse box on the first floor that you must fully climb up a ladder to try to reach. It seems precarious. I'm on the fourth floor (there are five floors) so I hope everything stays sound.
At 12, we arrived in Stare Miasto for a tour. In the tallest tower of St. Mary's Basilica a bugle player will open the second window from the top and play four rounds of a short hymn each hour of the 24-hour day. There are windows all sides so you do not know on which side he may play his bugle, hence, I could not find him during my run on Saturday. Special thanks to Hope O'Reilly for this video! Our tour was during the day, this video is from later that evening.
Our group toured the main square (plaza), St. Mary's Basilica, Sukiennice, the Royal Route, and Wawel Castle which include the cathedral. I did not bring my camera because I was not sure about the receptivity of a large piece of equipment. There were many people (tourists) with big cameras so I will go back to those places during the semester and get some good shots. I did notice this (below) at the side of the castle base...
Around 2:30 we went to Marchewka z Groszkiem (Carrots and Peas). I ordered Żurek (but the waitress did not hear me say "without the egg and sausage"), Gołąbki, and Kompot. Overall, the customer service is not always existent, but that's okay. I did decide before coming that at restaurants I would have to be more lenient with or even skip my dietary requests.
Kompot is a Polish drink made from boiled fruits and sometimes some added sugar. This one tasted of pear and raspberry. It was warm (about room temperature), dulcet, mellow, and welcoming. Gołąbki was my favorite. There was a thick, tangy tomato sauce (like extreme, gourmet spaghettios) that covered the plate and the main portion was cabbage wrapped peas, lentils, onions, and rice. The Żurek had egg and sausage, but I still ate the entire dish because it was delicious! The sausage was lightly pepper. Poles seem to prefer salt due to its abundance (i.e.Wieliczka Salt Mine) and the high value it has always carried. In the 1300s some of the first salt was found and it allowed Poland to build its economy. Back to the meal! I believe the sausage was also smoked. I haven't had sausage before, but compared to a hotdog it was more chewy and the flavor was more interesting. The soup was of course salty with a hint of vinegar from the fermented barely, a touch of margarine, and a super rich savory flavor. I was nervous about sickness and luckily this meal did not cause too much discomfort. I'm glad the pain wasn't long because I really enjoyed Żurek and I wanted to remember it well.
Later, I went to Mass at St. Mary's Basilica with one of my roommates and another wonderful person from my group. I believe St. Mary's was built not only for worship, but to emphasize how much more magnificent heaven will be because the ornate decorum. I apologize, I could not take pictures inside. The sermon was in Polish, but I could tell when prayers were said, or a call to worship was recited. It was about 35 minutes of beautiful, colorful peace. My eyes were so spoiled that night. The experience was genuinely enjoyed and I felt connected with the people there even though we did not speak the same language.
I also got a falafel at a Kabeb.
I searched online and found pictures that show what I saw. I sat about four or five pews back on the right and the Priest spoke from the left. The painting to the left below the Crucifixion is where he preached and prepared Communion. He prepared it with his back to us. I may have been able to partake, but I didn't. I was told by one person from my group (three of us went together) that he had spoke about connecting with Christ through everyday circumstances. They are just as important as the large miracles that we have read about and see being performed today. Small sanctuaries formed the outer perimeter of the main sanctuary. Beyond Christ Crucifixion, there was construction occurring so I could not see what the back of the church looked like. The alter is magnificent in the image below. (first image leads to the back of the church, second leads to the front, and third image is a close up of the loft above the exit lobby).
Here's a little symphony for you all.
Monday (96)
First day of class. I was super nervous because we immediately had a placement interview. I am in a beginner course. Today was very easy. My professor covered about half of the concepts I had taught myself. Numbers 1-20, alfabet (polish spelling), Hello (Czesć.), Good day (Dzien dobry.), Good evening (Dobry wieczór.), Goodbye (Do widzenia, Trzymay się, Na razie.), What is your name?(Jak masz na imię?), My name is Laura, (Mam na imię Laura), How old are you? (Ile masz lat?), I have 21 years. (Mam dwadzieścia jeden lat.), Where are you from? (Jesteś skąd?), I am from America (Jestem z Ameryki.), Where is the toilet? (Gdzie jest toaleta?), Przepraszam (Excuse me/ Sorry.), I do not understand (Nie rozumiem.) ("Nie rozumiem" and "przepraszam" are the most popular words for us USA students on the streets), and a few other helpful phrases.
I enjoy how interactive the lessons are. You must pay attention because she speaks mainly Polish. She will ask a student a question, he or she will respond and ask someone else a question (maybe the same question), he or she will respond, etc. Sometimes answers are very similar to previous responses, but this is okay. She is concerned with our pronunciation and our understanding for now, not with forming intricate responses.
After class I went to Przypiecek (24 hour Pierogi) and I had their vegetarian option. Speaking to natives is hard because they talk fast so I was delighted to be able to order my item using Polish and be prompt when the cashier shouted my order number in Polish. "Szesćnaście!" They were good, but I think the pierogi I had Saturday were better.
I studied in room until 5:40pm. Then I walked to Stary Głowny (Old Town) to meet my group at the Head. We went to my RD's office to watch All that I Love. It is a Polish film centered around the enforcement of Martial Law. Personally, I think that the love story got in the way, but it was a good watch. Forewarning: This movie has some provocative scenes.
I felt full so I didn't bother with dinner, but I did join up with some people from my group to sit in the plaza and talk. No, I did not join in on the tall beer mug club.
Tuesday (95)
Class was hard. We had a lot of conversations to learn how to ask where we, you (informal), you (formal), and they live. Our instructor also threw in Pan and Pani. These are proper pronouns to be used when you do not know someone. After class I got a Krakowskie precel or Obwarzanek Krakowski (Kraków Pretzel) with sesame and flaxseed. This is basically wheat flour, water, yeast, margarine, sugar, salt, and a bread improver. It's like eating cheese-stuffed crust minus the grease, plus the freshness and herbs. Some of the other students and I walked around for another hour and then back to the apartment.
Next, I just went back to my apartment and studied for a couple hours.
So, you may have noticed that it has been some time since I last ate something substantial. Well...I forgot to eat because I was too entranced with seeing the city. Hence, I got two big (think small turkey sized) vegan burgers for dinner. Good deal for $8. Unfortunately, I asked the cashier a little too formally (Czy pan mowisz po angielsku?) if he spoke English so I got a weird look. My question was phrased as if I was his friend--we do not know each other so this was poor communication on my part. I learned my lesson and I will not make it again. I also do not want to see another person react like that again. He just looked up from the register and stared in stark confusion. I highly recommend the Pastrami with spicy tomato and vegan mayo or feta. Jaglanex is okay. It's like a gourmet chicken pattie.
(From left to right: Pastrami, inside of Pastrami, Jaglanex)
Wednesday (94)
6:00 am run in the morning. I went to Wawel Castle and ran up the entrance hill. It is very steep and a killer. I ran around the cathedral (museum), near the overview lookout of the Vistula, and then through the exit gates to reach the entrance again. I passed the entrance and I went across the foot bridge (away from Wawel Castle) which spans the width of the Vistula River. Along the river there are long paths for running and biking. There are many small ferries for parties that line the edges of the river. I need to get out there with my camera for pictures of the river and the bridge(s).
P.S. I did get "lost" on the other side of the river. I had forgotten that I had already crossed the bridge to get back on the side of Wawel Castle. It took me five minutes of running around on the wrong side to realize this. Thank goodness for a certain hotel that I remembered seeing just after crossing the bridge the first time (away from Wawel Castle). Overall, a very good run, although the end was rough with me sprinting back on Ulica Długa to my apartment to make it to class showered and on time. I feel good about the marathon because this was 1:40 and it was easy at a 85-90% pace.
Class was interesting today. We were joined by the A2 group (I am in A1). We had to ask them questions to learn who they were. What is your full name? Where are you from? Where do you live? how are you? What is your phone number? That last question is very strange in a classroom setting. We learned colors, numbers up through 199, grammatical word forms (masculine, feminine, other), lots of vocabulary, words to describe people physically, and....Frère Jacques in Polish. I think we sung it about 10 times in canon.
Our RD took us on a short tour of two English-friendly libraries. We traveled some short roads that looked like they used hold a walk-through market. This is the most "hipsterest" place to be in Kraków, Poland according to my RD. We also went to a bookstore/cafe.
I went back to the Vegan burger place and got their Tofex (with Vegan mayonnaise and dill) and sweet potato fries. A student from Canada in my polish language course highly recommended this choice. I asked for "to-go" and they made it as "eat-in" so there was a little confusion (and disgruntlement on their part, costumer service, phsheez, louise), but I got my meal and went sighting seeing at Wawel Castle. I got some pictures, but I think I will try to go again soon. There's a dragon behind the castle at sea level (or river level if we're talking about Vistula) and I really want to see it breathe fire.
Back at "home" (my apartment) I was craving ice cream. I decided to try Lody z Lodziarni. They have vegan ice cream and it is sweetened with stevia. Perfect! Only, I had the Tiramisu, which is not vegan, but worth all the running and walking I have done all day. I wish I could track how many miles I am covering each day. It must be close to 20-25 miles/day. No wonder I am always tired around 4 or 5 pm!
Thursday (93)
Class 8:30-12:45. I spent some time catching up on small errands. For lunch I went to Nowy Kleparz Zapraszamy, a small market with local goods, adjacent to my apartment complex. I just bought spinach, tomatoes, apples, and dates. They have some great prices for local products.
Friday (92)
Class until 12:50. Came back and had a salad. Left for Galeria Krakowska to fix my phone's internet problem. Something to with my "do not disturb" setting? One of my sweet roommates came with me to translate and another guy from our group came to set up his SIM card.
My roommate and I walked through the mall for about two hours. There are three levels. She was looking for a small black bag with some panache. A glossy turquoise bag (too expensive!) and a flower patterned bag were the favorites. I was looking for scarves. I could get a nice, thick scarf for about $5 in most clothing stores. I was surprised at the number of elegant and high end shoe, handbag, clothing, and/or scarf shops there are. Poland is very chic and classy.
We also did some grocery shopping in the mall. I want to get some Polish candy (the type only found in Poland).
After the mall, we split up and I went to Krowarzywa, again. I really like this place. I ate in and then walked back to my apartment to study and relax. I'll be honest, it was a little intimidating being surrounded by so many polish-speaking people in that little restaurant, but I enjoyed listening and not really understanding :) And seriously, America, you need to step up your vegan burgers! Look at the size of this! It's better looking than any meat burger I have seen.
Saturday (91)
Woke up around 8:30. Left to run around 9:30am. Below is a map of everywhere I went for about two hours. I backtracked a bit as well, but I know a few of the streets and neighborhoods that are North and Southwest of me.
After running I looked up Polish donuts and decided on Cukiernia Michałek. I should try to get there earlier next time because the selection was small. I may also try the small market adjacent to the apartment since there are small bakeries there, but they only speak Polish. I really want one of those jelly filled, powdered donuts!
When I returned I had a quick salad of spinach, tomato, and herb-flavored tofu. I bough this yesterday with Anna. It is very different. The herbs are strong, but overall it's an okay item. Then I ate the donut/pastry (I'm sure it is a pastry). It's a sweet dough kind of like Danish pastry. There are four blobs of a Star anise flavored topping and the four white blobs were mostly unflavored, yet possibly contained a hint of almond. Raisins hidden in the blobs were a nice sweet surprise. I was tasting walnut and almond, and found a few pieces as well. The jam in the center is sweet with a subtle, bitter tang from the currants. There were a few seeds, but they don't take away from the quality. A drizzle of glaze completed the pastry. Overall, it was enjoyed, but I think I have had better pastries. Once again, I got there with 2 hours until closing so it was slimmer pickings.
I took a three hour nap, then made some rice noodles with spinach and peanut butter, and finished this post. I'll try to get out and about the city more in the next couple of weeks. This last week was low key so that I could adjust. I think a visit to the Jewish District, a theater, and a good pączki shop are in the near future.
Things that have shocked me:
Shopkeepers know English and some are very friendly when helping American customers, especially if you gave it you best shot while ordering. I have been able to order food in Polish, successfully and without error, about two times.
Costumer service--again some people are really nice and some are not (don't take this personally). One thing to note is that meals are brought out of order. You may order first and get your meal last. The side you ordered with your Gołąbki will not come out at the same time either. I kind of like this nonchalant manner.
American food in the grocery store.
Pollution! Kraków has the third worst air quality in Europe. Also, many people smoke over here.
I have not had trouble with breathing due to higher acclimation or pollution :)
Elaborate churches. St. Mary's Basilica, you are overwhelming.
Traffic is crazy--people walk out in front of cars (on a crosswalk, of course), all cars almost always stop (pedestrian/bicycle right of way), and bicyclists/motorcyclists can skillfully maneuver their way through any congested area (street, sidewalk, plaza full of people).
People here walk very fast. They make me look slow and I tend to walk faster.
Street signs on buildings. Traffic signs are sparse. Speed limit signs are practically nonexistent.
Older ladies tend to dye their hair red, orange, or red-orange. Other colors are not "in". It just does not look natural.
Water bottle are the size of bowling pins.
The tip (10%, ouch) is already added into the total price of things such as: processed and/or catered foods, communal services, newspapers, magazines. I love that I don't have to do math, and I'm okay with a $0.82 tip. Most services and products have been as good as in America if not better. However, I am "living" a bit more in Poland rather than staying in my dorm room or the classroom/lab.
You pay for the water at restaurants and for the use of public restrooms. I haven't seen a public restroom yet, but some franchises will let their costumers use it without charge.
In the mall, the small offices for insurance, banking, or other personal/home services are really compact. They don't block the walk ways like the big booths in US malls do and they are not entrapped in a fence-like counter. I think the open office look is more inviting.
No water fountains.
You do not know what courses you can take, what day of the week they are, nor what time they are held until a few days before the semester starts. It is very last minute.
Decisions are made on a situational basis. Each problem is taken on as its own. Even if the exact same problem has occurred previously, the current outcome of the problem is not influenced by prior problem. There is no universal approach which compares similar circumstances to determine an outcome.
This guy... He is everywhere!
Next week's post is going to be wild! Wieliczka Salt Mine is on the agenda.
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